Rapidan Camp Hike - Wrap

Continuing with our July 5 hike... After passing Big Rock Falls, it is only a short distance into Rapidan Camp. This historical site sits in a relatively flat area at the confluence of the Laurel and Mills Prongs, and is also where the Rapidan River starts.

The Hoovers chose this site based on three criteria: 1) the retreat needed to be within 100 miles of Washington, DC; 2) the minimum altitude was to be above 2,500 feet to eliminate mosquitoes; and 3) a trout stream had to be immediately accessible. They bought the land with their own money and paid for many of the improvements, augmented by the Marines who built some of the improvements as training.

We walked down to the “Brown House,” or Presidential Cabin, where we sat in these chairs, overlooking the rustic bridge, and had some sandwiches. The bridge is rebuilt, but there are pictures of Hoover posing on it. Also, the chairs are of the original design, and the publications say that Hoover often sat out on this deck enjoying the stream.

One other note about this spot, Roosevelt visited the camp as the Hoovers had dedicated it to successor Presidents. The camp was difficult for Roosevelt to get to, and get around in. But it is said that he sat in this spot to consider whether or not to use the site for his own retreats; he preferred Georgia, New York, and Maryland for this purpose and never returned.

The only President after Hoover to use the cabin was Jimmy Carter, in fact, who was here in 1979.

Over the four years of Hoover’s term, he spent most summer weekends here.

Notable visitors included the Prime Minister of England, who was on a state visit to discuss naval arms limitations. This cabin is known as the Prime Minister Cabin and includes excellent interpretive displays.

Also, as the Depression advanced, Hoover was very involved in arranging financing for bank rescues during his stays here.

Finally, the large outdoor fireplace here and in the first photo above was used for photographs and for gatherings in the evening. As luck would have it, my phone cam shot illustrates how the design of this fireplace was repeated in the cabins and other buildings. The camp was used during three seasons eventually, but it immediately fell into disuse at the end of the Hoover administration.

We bought a little history book at the Big Meadow ranger store and I read it Sunday. The camp had as many as 22 structures for guests at one time, but only three remain. There was an entire separate camp for the Marines who stayed in the Park while the Hoovers were there. Also, as they got to know some of the mountain people in the area, the Hoovers built a schoolhouse to educate them.

The property was eventually used by the Boy Scouts in the 1950’s, but without a swimming pool, it wasn’t as well used as some of the other properties they had access to, and the facility was eventually turned over to the National Park Service for management. Today there is a volunteer who resides on-site in “The Creel,” one of the original buildings.

There is a good review of the hike on Hiking Upward (http://www.hikingupward.com/ - search for Camp Hoover) and of course additional historical information at Wikipedia.

Hike Recap - July 5, Rapidan Camp in SNP

On July 5, we realized that we hadn’t been on a hike for a few weeks, so we consulted our easy day hikes book for a referral. We’ve done a number of the hikes there already, but there are plenty to go…and for reference, while it is entitled easy day hikes, some are rigorous – the title refers to the time frame of the hikes, meaning these do not require an overnight backpacking trek.

We chose the Rapidan Camp hike as our destination for the day. It has an interesting historical objective among its features: the hike descends along a stream to the summer White House used by Herbert Hoover. Tomorrow’s post will discuss this objective.

We parked at Milam Gap, just a few miles south of Big Meadows in the SNP, and found the trailhead across Skyline Drive. Some readers may not be familiar with hiking in the SNP – frequently, and especially with these easy day hikes – the trip either immediately descends down the mountains, with the return consisting of a climb back up (sometimes it’s steep as in Dark Hollow Falls); or you begin with a climb and the return is downhill (as with Hawksbill Summit). It isn’t always this way, but it frequently is.

As we got underway, among the first sites was this fern glade. We have been talking about naturalizing the cabin’s front lawn…when I think of that, the picture that comes to mind is like this one. Although I may be wrong, my recollection is that this sort of environment is only encountered on the east side slopes of the Park, probably has something to do with the leeward direction and the rainfall in the woods.

A feature of this hike is the fact that it follows Laurel Prong – a small stream that is highlighted as a trout fishing destination (catch and release only!). Laurel Prong joins Mill Prong (interesting they are prongs here, not forks) and at the confluence becomes the Rapidan River – and that is where the little camp was sited for Hoover.

Here are a couple of the stream crossings on the hike – the route we chose featured three crossings such as these.

Finally, at the bottom of the route, and 500 yards or so from the camp, there is Big Rock Falls, shown in the photo at the top of this entry. This is a small waterfall compared to others nearby in this section of the Park, but it is among the most scenic.

Tomorrow’s post will go into some detail about the camp itself. It was a very interesting destination for us. And this is a hike we will take again – there is opportunity for extending it over some varied scenery and crossing other streams in a longer circuit hike, as opposed to the out-and-back we did.

How do you like them apples?

Complementing the hostas spectacular of the previous post, there are a couple of other blooming plants in their heyday right now, so here are a few phone cam images of those.

There is a big apple tree in the front yard that we didn't expect much from - it hasn't been pruned in a decade and was infested with tent caterpillars this Spring, not to mention all the woodpecker tracings on the trunk and branches. Yet, here is a photo of a branch weighed down with fruit, and we've been finding partially eaten apples on the ground from squirrel feending frenzies. There is too much worker and construction traffic in the neighborhood right now to attract deer, but I wouldn't be surprised if those residents in the hollow weren't making their way over from time to time.

Regretfully, I didn't get a photo of the apricot tree in Alexandria. This legacy tree was planted by the previous owners, who were from California and Hawaii. You would never have known that tree wasn't a Virginia native this year from all the fruit it bore - much to the delight of the neighborhood squirrels.

Also, as a follow-up to an earlier post about bee balm, here are all the plants in bloom right now, near the small shed. They really make a showy grouping.

And lastly, a double-blossomed lilly that we were pleased to find. There is a small group of about five of these nestled in with a larger bed of daylillies near the parking space.

Hosta-farians

There is plenty to post after the three-day weekend at the Hawksbill Cabin. We had an excellent time despite not making the trek to the Home Depot in H-burg. As an alternative, we actually hiked in the Shenandoah National Park - a two-part post will follow about that.






The Hostas are in bloom right now at the cabin, and today I want to post a couple of images of them at Mary's request. These plants are scattered throughout the gardens near the house, and thrive there in the partial sun.




The first image above is up the hill in the backyard, near an old tree stump. This is clay soil that nothing else grows in, but the hosta there holds its own. Also, this garden patch in the backyard has a profusion of blooms this year, and is paired up with three large rhododendrums that are also blooming right now. There are so many flowers, the bees are audible inside through the open windows.

Here is a view near the driveway, in a small garden patch that also has several spring blooming bulb plants and a lilac. In the background you can see one of two bee balm plantings - there will be a follow-up post on this flower later in the week.

In this final hosta image, here are some plants along the east side of the house. This was taken from the end of the brick terrace near the new steps to the pool. Because of the shade over here and the steepness of the hill, there is a great breeze and it stays very cool - probably five degrees cooler than elsewhere in the yard, as I discovered yesterday while reading out there.

Also, at one point in the morning, I heard a loud buzz. I thought it was a big bee, but as I turned to take a look there was a humming bird working over the hostas blooms here in this area.

One photo I did not capture yesterday is of the hosta "specimen garden" that we have beneath the apple tree in the front yard. An earlier post highlighted deer damage in this area (http://hawksbillcabin.blogspot.com/2008/04/deer-damage.html) but you would never notice it now. I will try to get a photo next weekend if we go out.

Thinking about the Fourth of July

I was perusing Altercation yesterday (you can check the link over there on the right for the blog link to the Media Matters blog) when one of the contributors discussed his favorite holidays. An excerpt of the Bateman quote there:

“…the jubilation of the Fourth. And jubilation it should be, friends. Jubilation and awe. Jubilation for the success of the experiment we began in self-rule 232 years ago. Awe for the beauty and power of the words, the courage of the signers, and the audacity of all those who converted a declaration into a reality between 1775 and 1783.”

And I would add, awe for the power of the Constitution, which has withstood all sorts of threats over 220-plus years, and especially during these last eight years.

The Fourth of July is my favorite holiday, and although we didn’t do it this year, we usually decorate up the Alexandria house as shown in the photos. This year some of the bunting and banners are going up at the cabin, by the way.

I like all those images in the Mellancamp songs. I love a hot dog on a sunny summer day. I love to fire up the grill when it starts to cool off in the early evenings of summer. I love fireworks. The Fourth makes me think about parking on a runway on a Navy base when I was a kid, waiting for the fireworks.

I love being in a special place with friends on this day. I love the sense of community that we get to share on this one day. And I feel really close to these things when we visit the little cabin in the Shenandoah Valley.

Our country makes a promise to everyone that things can be better. This year that is what we are going to celebrate at the Hawksbill Cabin – that the country is going to return to that promise very soon.

And a special thanks to those who serve now to protect this promise. I look forward to a day very soon when we can celebrate with you back here at home...and I hope that it could be as soon as January 21, 2009!

Some old books

Last year, during the first few weeks at the cabin, we undertook some early demolition efforts that complemented the roof work and other major projects. One project dealt with getting rid of a lean-to that was added to the little shed in the back yard - many of the panel boards had visible termite damage and there were also plentiful signs of carpenter bees (and woodpecker damage).

This little cabinet was mounted under the lean-to, and it was filled with old books. They'd been outside for some time and showed the kinds of damage you would expect from this rough handling: stains, mildew, and tears in the covers and some pages, even some damage from insects.

We found them quite interesting. There are two or three sets from several owners. Most have a location incribed on the front cover from West Virginia. We haven't been able to track down any of these former owners through Google searches, but we'll try again someday.

As far as what to do with them, we haven't decided that either. We took them down from the cabinet and laid them out to dry in the sun, and we now store them in the garage where they are out of the direct elements, but not in the best environment. A used book seller told us restoration is not worth the effort on these, as once mold has started there isn't much you can do without a museum's facilities and curatorial expertise.

So we are holding them for now, maybe we'll cut out and save the graphics and printings (the WW1 set has a number of maps and prints that are interesting, for example).

Of frogs, hawks, hummingbirds, and deer

Here’s our final entry for June – the summer is fully underway at the Hawksbill Cabin. We await the completion of our pool repairs, but the two other large projects are coming to a close. July will be a busy work and travel month, so the pace of entries will slow, even though our interest in sharing this experience will not wane! A final logistics note, we will be changing our mobile phone carrier to one with better coverage in the cabin area – this may temporarily reduce the number of phone-cam postings.

On our arrival Friday night last weekend, we were greeted by a chorus of deep-voiced frogs over in the hollow. These were booming grunts, nothing like the high-pitched songs of the spring frogs. As I unloaded the car, I wanted to reach for a flashlight; sometimes it sounded like there were a couple of men walking down the road talking. The singing of the frogs was varied and sounded like a conversation.

The next wildlife encounter involved our nesting hawks. There are two previous entries about these birds at:
http://hawksbillcabin.blogspot.com/2008/06/then-there-were-three-nesting-hawks.html
http://hawksbillcabin.blogspot.com/2008/05/nesting-hawks.html

The adults are staying away from the nest for longer and longer periods. But they must stay nearby, as they appear almost instantly any time a blue jay lights in their tree, or a crow flies through the neighborhood. And last night, I saw the male arrive with a small prey bird to feed the nestlings.

We still have not managed to catch the nestlings in a photo suitable for posting. We watched the nest carefully over the weekend and have been able to identify three nestlings – they are probably about 2/3 adult size now, so the largest of them may be able to fly by next weekend. During the day, they jostle about in the nests –we can hear these squabbles down below. And they venture out now onto the neighboring branches, never more than 6 or 8 feet from the nest.
Our vantage point, directly below, obscures them for photography purposes. But we have been able to get a good look at them through the binoculars from time to time.

Another wildlife treat over the weekend was the appearance of a humming bird in the yard. This little creature showed up while I was out watching the hawks. It flew up out of the hollow and buzzed into the pine boughs of the hawks’ tree, then out and along the tree tops of some of our dogwoods. It stopped by the hostas, not yet in bloom, then onto the back of the house (headed for the bee balm, maybe, or the lilies). That was a pleasant surprise.

Final nature highlight of the day was a sighting of the large doe that lives in our neighborhood. I had a glimpse of her last weekend during one of the storms as she moved from the hollow along our driveway to the woods behind us. I think this is the same doe that had two fawns with her last year – they weren’t with her this time, although I saw the three of them together once during the early Spring.

Yesterday morning she was out on the road, walking along the front of our lots. She crossed the creek and climbed part way up the hill before something startled her, and she headed back into the hollow. A few minutes later I saw her by the stream before she headed deeper into the hollow.

That’s all for the cabin posting today. It’s kind of like an outdoor lifestyle out there. More to come.

TNT: Terry's 'new' Truck

It's been a couple of weeks now, but one day our Hawksbill Pines neighbor Terry told us he was buying a new truck - he'd found it in Alexandria and the guy he was buying it from was selling at a bargain price he couldn't resist.

The vehicle is a late sixties vintage and in remarkably good shape.




He plans to retag it for farm use and use it to run errands; and offered to let us use it from time to time. He may park it under our carport.

Mary loves to drive a truck, I should mention.





On another note, here is a nice Ford Ranger that showed up in our Alexandria neighborhood over the last few weeks. Most of the time when I have seen it, it has been dressed up with a canoe on top, sometimes not. Anyway, this is the idea I have when I think of the truck I may buy someday.

British Searching for the Stanley Fire Updates

Sorry friends, the Google results you are hitting are for a wildfire in Stanley, Virginia, USA...

I think you are looking for:
http://www.magic1152.co.uk/Article.asp?id=749297&spid=23889

The original post here was: http://hawksbillcabin.blogspot.com/2008/04/stanley-fire-update.html

Summer Flowers Inaugural - Bee Balm

Last year about this time, we had our first look at the cabin, before deciding we'd have a go at purchasing it. Among the highlights of that first visit was this patch of Bee Balm in the backyard near the shed, which was just in full bloom. The first flower of the year showed up last weekend, pictured here.

Since then I noticed we have a couple of plantings; one has been removed due to the pool construction. There is another patch near the garage, however, and we may take some of the seed heads back to Alexandria this Fall. And of course, we'll give some to our neighbors out yonder.

Of particular interest is the fact that this plant has medicinal qualities, according to Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beebalm ) - the leaves are used to make a tea that treats mouth and throat infections, as well as minor skin infections and wounds. In fact, the oil that provides this benefit is a major ingredient in modern mouthwash. There is also a reference to treating stomach cramps and flatulence.

It has also been used as a spice for game, having a flavor similar to oregano.

I found the name of the flower recently by leafing through a Blue Ridge "lifestyle" magazine published out of Georgia - the photo I saw there was of a hummingbird hovering in front of it - apparently these are a very attractive flower for the birds.

Later in the summer, when the patch is in full bloom, I'll post another photo. Also, will plan to include a post on a Luray Business called the Apple Cottage at that time, an organic-oriented enterprise in town that sells teas, herbs, and aromatherapies.

Revisiting where we've been - that wtf moment

When I was looking at a couple of the blog posts this month - the progress on the pool, where I show the elevation photo of the cabin from poolside, for example, or where we show the new roof and chimney - both posts from just this week, in fact...I can't help but think about where we've been with this thing in just less than a year since we bought the place last August.

I last documented this reminder in a post last December: http://hawksbillcabin.blogspot.com/2007/12/wtf-moment.html

But here for convenience are the photos of what we had to do after we found out about the termites - example of termite damage first, then the first of many big projects. (Henry, we found out about the snakes after...)

It really is an incredible job that Jesse has done. For readers in the Valley area - he's a talented resource for your building projects (or rebuilding projects, as in our case!)

Pool Equipment Begins Arriving!

It is a real sign of progress to see the big projects coming together as they are right now - even with the daily torrential downpours that have turned Virginia into the Florida of my youth. Speaking of summertime in Florida - we used to go to the pool a lot...and very soon, we'll be able to enjoy the restored Hawksbill Cabin pool.

There is electrical work going on in parallel with the pool repairs, but on Sunday afternoon, Daris and some of his Uncle D's installers were out at the pool to unload some equipment and discuss the installation of the new pool liner.

Here is the new pump sitting on the pad we put in to hold it and some other pool equipment. The footer from yesterday's entry is on the otherside of this fence.

Also, here are some odds and ends - the tracks that will be installed to hold the new liner, some hose for the pumps, and one of several skimmers. The pool will be equipped with four skimmers, and we are adding lighting and a ladder.

Seems like it won't be long now!

The Big Projects are Really Coming Together

A few weeks ago, when I was walking down to the pool to show Daris around, one of the logs in the little stairway came out of place. We decided that we needed to add this to the project Jesse was working on - the brick terrace. Here are the old logs, lying in one of our poison ivy patches.

And the second photo here is of the new steps in progress - designed from retired railroad ties. We are going to put a four-inch concrete pad in each tread of the stair way. Here you can see where the area around the stairs is overrun with another kind of ivy, with some hostas and a magnolia mixed in - not to mention the old barbeque that is not in working order.

The next two photos are of the steps down to the pool level, after you enter the gate. We removed all the old planters that were here to give more room. I think the stairs may be a little steep, but there was nothing here before, so it is an improvement.

And here is one of the new footer at the base of the retaining wall - again replacing the planter that was there before. Two notes on this one: 1) there was a four inch layer of concrete under this wall bolstered by the planter, so we were glad to find that out in the progress before putting the new footer in; and 2) because we couldn't bring a truck in for this job, the guys had to wheelbarrow 80 times with the concrete for this footer!

Here is a quick perspective on where the new footer is, and a picture of the retaining wall. That's the Hawksbill Cabin in the back - original stone portion! Pool is not in the picture, but it would be in the foreground.

Tomorrow's entry - pool equipment arriving!

A Homebrewer's Hop Garden

Somewhere in this (Alexandria) house, I have a book titled "The Homebrewer's Bible" - I bought it a few years ago with good intentions. On that occasion, we'd visited a Marine Colonel who was retiring. He regaled us with stories of the service and we had a great dinner, followed by apertifs and cigars...but one of the highlights leading up to dinner and during it was the two or three varieites of homebrew he hap on hand to share.

I'm a fan - we often receive a bottle or two from friends who make a special batch for the holidays. Then there is Stan, one of my USAF/Berlin buddies here in Northern Virginia, who makes a batch a week, often trading recipes with the local brew pubs, who taps a couple of bottles whenever I manage to get by his house.

So I've harbored this long time thought that I might like to try it - and if I got into it, I might like to grow some of the sacred ingredients. My thoughts are focused on hops, the flowering vine that imparts a special flavor to beer; it is a thought that traces back to visiting Hop Kiln Vineyard in Sonoma in the early 90's.

We visited a neighbor in the Hawksbill Pines neighborhood last week, enjoying a glass of wine and some fresh strawberries from his organic garden. He also grows a variety of vegetables and fruits - they have about 7 acres total, although not all of it, and not even the majority of it, is cultivated. Everything is grown organically and they supplement their grocery bill with cabbage (here), corn, strawberries and blueberries.

The best surprise was when he told me he had put in six hop vines - to Northwestern varieties, I believe both from Willamette. There is an organic commitment in this garden, so the plot is tilled with compost, and the vines had already grown to the line and were beginning to climb out. Not long now they will begin to bud and flower, yielding this noble ingredient of a favorite pastime - beer.

Here's the obligatory wikipedia link to Hops: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hops

What's up there

I am going to change cell service soon to something that works out in the cabin's neck of the woods. Turns out I have a bunch of old cabin photos stored on the current service's web site, and I need to move them...I've been using the blog as a way to save them while documenting our projects and the cabin lifestyle.

These three are of the new standing seam metal roof just after installation, with detail of the cut out features over the brick terrace and window. Also, here is a view of the chimney - since we installed the new heat, this is not needed anymore.

Bringing the outside in

By way of an update, when we visited last week, Jesse had completed the brick terrace portion of the outdoor projects. The work included smoothing out and patching the gravel foundation for the terrace and relaying the bricks. Next steps include putting in new steps down to the pool and clearing out the planter at the base of the retaining wall, then repointing that wall.




These first two photos show the front door - a heavy dutch door, and the view out towards the terrace from the main room of the cabin. The floor of the main room is also brick, laid in the same herring bone fashion. It was a tenet of midcentury modernism to bring the outside in, often with walls of windows that opened to the outdoors. Although our windows don't work the repetition of the brick pattern accomplishes this.




Here are a couple of views of the newly relaid terrace, first looking out to the yard and drive. That's Sofie at the end, settling down for a nap - this is the spot where she saw her first deer, so now she spends a lot of time keeping vigilant from there.

The second photo looks in the same direction, showing our outdoor breakfast set up and the wall of windows in the main room.

Afghani Prayer Rug

Now that we are hearing about the return of Taliban attacks in Afghanistan (politics is not a topic of the blog, although media criticism is a possibility - the Taliban activity is still not newsworthy enough for the front page of the Washington Post) - my thoughts turn to these prayer rugs I saw at the Eastern Market in DC last summer.





My USAF service in the '80's was characterized by several Cold War events; the Soviet Afghan War was one of the major ones. So I took a careful look at these rugs, studying the Soviet weapon images of RPGs and AK-47s. I considered buying one for a moment.





Imagine my delight a few weeks ago visiting my sister's family and finding out that my brother-in-law purchased one of these rugs during one of his two deployments to Afghanistan. Here is the very nice example that now decorates the Hawksbill Cabin. Note the pretty blue dye on the map, and all the legends about the weapons and reference to Sept. 11.

Thanks Sean and Nancy!

Spring Flowers - 2008 Final

Here are my last two photos of spring flowers from around the Alexandria and Stanley homes. Since the day lillies and crepe myrtles - flowers I associate with summer - are already in bloom, it's time to move on.

Here is a peonie from the cabin, one of three varieties we discovered out there. There are also pale pink, almost white, plants, and a deeper red one.

Here is what is locally known as candy corn. I'd never seen these before, but they were all over the valley a few weeks ago. I noted one additional variation, in an all-white coloration.

About those butterfly chairs

Last winter, when the leaves were off the trees and all the critters were hibernating, we took a walk around our lots and into the surrounding woods. In an overgrown junk heap near the pool and woods, we found the frames of two butterfly chairs, and later found a third that had been carted off into the woods near Beaver Run.

It turns out that these chairs were frequently used in the 1950s and 1960s and became a symbolism of modernism because of their minimalist design and "form over function" theme. According to Wikipedia, they were designed by an Argentinian named Jorge Ferrari Hardoy in 1938, and were based on an earlier wood-frame design that used a similar hammock or sling concept for seating.

We rescued the three chairs, deciding that recycling them back into usage by the pool would save us some money and also fit in with the Midcentury Modern concept we have maintained during the restoration of the cabin.

Here are two photos of the repairs in progress. We've found a web source for the fabric slings and will be placing an order for that in a few weeks...as the pool comes on line we'll have these chairs up and ready for lounging.

Then there were three nesting hawks

A quick update on our nesting sharp-shinned hawks - over the weekend there was a lot of activity in the nest as the parents came and went. The original post is at http://hawksbillcabin.blogspot.com/2008/05/nesting-hawks.html.

Most of the time the nest is well enough hidden in the big pine that I still have not managed to get a photograph of it or the hawks when they are there. After a rain on Saturday, the branches were weighed down so I could catch movement up there from time to time, but never had the clear shot for a photograph.

The adult birds continue the call/respond behaviors, but the range from the nest is growing farther and farther. When we first encountered them, the male would sound a call from inside of 200 yards; now it sounds like he could be as far away as 500 yards. Not every time now, but still frequently, the female will either respond with a call or she will fly out of the nest in the direction of the call.

As the male occasionally flew by the nest, just as he was parallel or overhead he would make his call. I also was able to hear the sound of at least one nestling, although I haven't seen it or any sign of it yet. The little voice seemed to be a response to the calls, but I need to observe a bit longer to be sure about this.

Mary and I think these developments are aimed at helping the young learn that they will need to leave the nest and learn to fly. Will put up a new post next week assuming we learn more about them. Next week I will have my camera binocs with me and hopefully will be able to post a photo.