Since I started the Hawksbill Cabin blog, I’ve written about Tempelhof Central Airport (we called it TCA or Tempelhof for short, in German it was Flughafen Tempelhof) in Berlin a few times – including in my last blog post. Looking back over the old posts, I’ve included some notes about the airport itself – I can never look at the aerial view of it without seeing the image of the eagle that it was designed to symbolize – along with some fond memories of the time that I lived there from 1981 to 1986.
I intend for my next post to be about the current plans for
the redevelopment of the old airport, so I have a nostalgic purpose for the
post today, inspired by the Google Earth photo I put up in my last post and
repeat here today. There are minor
changes – for today’s post I’ve traced a favorite running route (in orange) out along the
perimeter, and designated some of the areas that I mention in the post.
I suppose I could measure the distance on this route if I took
the time, but as I recall, this route would be something in the neighborhood of
seven miles or so round trip, very flat for the most part. Most of my runs were about four miles or so,
out and back. That distance would take
you past the end of the building, along a little road there that led to the
Candy Bomber, softball fields, and picnic grounds. Then you made a sharp left at the end of a
brick wall, and ran past some technical buildings related to the airport
operation, and finally to a place where a neighborhood bordered the airfield.
Along part of this route, there were some old fuel storage
bunkers where I would cut off of the road and get in some small hills – Berlin’s
terrain is very flat and I was always desperate for the variation in the
routine. The first time I did this I was
listening to my JVC “Walkman-style” cassette player with Talking Heads More
Songs About Buildings and Food playing.
The song Big Country is
forever linked in my memory to looking across the brick wall at the neighboring
cemetery garden, assuming that is what it was, and hoping that I wasn’t visible
enough to disturb anyone in there.
Finally, further along the fence, there was an old
neighborhood that looked down into the airfield, where the edge of the base gave
a stark impression. Not just the contrast
of the military lifestyle that defined the inside of the fence with the urban
vibrancy that was outside – there was more to it, because you knew that during
the Berlin Airlift that impossible frequency of planes coming in to land or
taking off here put those buildings in constant danger of a collision.
On longer runs, getting out past the apartments took you to
the end of the other runway. Outside the
fence you could see tower lights that guided the planes to the runway, and you
definitely had the feeling of being in right the middle of where the airlift
had happened. Those areas were strewn
with small rubble piles and it was easy to imagine that this was the scene for
those famous Candy Bomber scenes.
This was also the runway where those Polish Lot hijacks from
the early 1980’s came in to land – more about these in a future post, because I’ll need
to do some research to refresh my memory.
Past the runway, there was a curve off to the right, and
then you came to a couple of surprises: a barn where an enterprising farmer had
arranged to keep sheep on the airfield property, and then some vegetable plots
that many Air Force folks kept up. I ran
into a friend named Steve Hulsey there a few times, driving his VW microbus
around out there to pick up some tomatoes – and the porta-john was a welcome
relief on my longer runs more than once. The sheep were pretty famous among my
friends, but I doubt many of them ever saw the piles of hay and manure that I
encountered out here on my runs!
Right in this area, on the other side of the fence there
were some soccer fields, and in the afternoon sometimes I would here the kids
playing there. I enjoyed the
juxtaposition of those fields with the quiet gardens and old metal fabrication
plants on our side of the fence, with all kinds of scrap and industrial flotsam
and jetsam scattered around in overgrown patches of grass.
Finally, at the backside of the airfield, the southern
limits, there was a long gentle curve with a view back towards the airport
building. Outside the fence, there was
an industrial-scaled Bahlesen bakery where the smell of Prinzen-Rollen cookies would
waft over me during my run – I still love these cookies and get a pleasant
flashback when I buy them. Then, soon
enough, you’d reach the end of the perimeter road where it intersected with the
other end of the runway. Since the road ended
here, I would always turn back.
Someone once told me – this was probably Steve Hulsey, who’d
spent most of his adult life assigned there – that earlier generations of Air
Force service people assigned to Tempelhof would have found an outdoor pool
available. There wasn’t a trace of it in
my day, and I found it hard to believe that something like that was ever there. But this was my turn-around point on the
longer runs – as I prepared for the 1983 Berlin Marathon, I was running this
route two or three times a week, sometimes cobbling on another two or three miles
to get a ten-miler in.
So today’s post is a set-up for the one I intend to write
next, about the proposed redevelopment of the old airfield. Certainly I feel some nostalgia for the place
I lived so long, but times have changed and that building and surrounding
acreage is an incredible asset for the people of Berlin. I hope to visit it a few more times and watch
its transformation.